Why I Think Vogue 9123 Is An Overlooked Pattern

Vogue 9123 Is A Greatly Overlooked Coat Pattern

Why I think Vogue 9123 is an overlooked pattern.

It is sadly now discontinued, but is still sometimes available on EBay and Etsy. I believe that it was often passed-over due to the uninspiring cover illustration. For those that can see its potential, it reaps great rewards! 

The pattern consists of a lined dress with fitted bodice and flounced sleeve details. The lined jacket is loose-fitting with pockets, front button closure and a tie sash belt. 

I love the fitted bodice and fluted sleeves of the V9123 dress

You can clearly see the simplicity of this coat pattern makes it perfect for a beginner


The fabric is a pink and off white wool tweed purchased at my local Marrakech market. It was so cheap at just £4 / $5 a metre, that I must confess that I purchased quite a lot of it. My intention was to make various items (coat, trousers etc.)that I could mix and match. 

The lining is a gorgeous heavy weight satin, also locally purchased at a similar price. I will always use the heaviest satin that I can find to line garments. It gives a feeling and look of luxury that elevates any outfit. 


I never liked the length of the jacket as illustrated, which is another reason people might have been put off purchasing the pattern. It seemed too long for a jacket, and not a suitable coat length to go with the dress illustrated.

On this occasion I was making the coat to accessorise a dress made with Vogue 1435, not the dress included in the pattern. 

The jacket pattern is straightforward and simple to construct. There are few darts, and the straight lines and few pattern pieces make it a great coat for someone with little experience. 

It is, in fact, a great base pattern for a simple loose-fitting unstructured coat. I think that everyone should have such a pattern in their collection, as it is a great starting place for many possible designs. 

I lined the whole coat in a heavy D & G satin, which gave the coat a wonderful weight. It really feels amazing to wear, especially with a sleevless dress!    


On this occasion I chose to lengthen the jacket to a metre, making it, in effect, a true coat length for me and my 5’ 1” frame. This allows the coat to cover my knees, which is just the perfect length I think.

The other main alteration that I made to the coat was to shorten the sleeves and add the ruffle from the dress pattern. This, I feel, adds real drama to the coat, and elevates it to a special occasion outfit. 

The tie belt was unnecessary on this occasion, and so I omitted it. 

The ruffle sleeves add drama to the coat


I commissioned oversized silk buttons to match my fabric from a local Marrakech haberdashery stall. They are extra large, making a real statement. I therefore chose not to make button holes, but instead to close the coat using large press studs. 


Not wishing to waste any of the fabric, I also commissioned some peep toe wedge shoes to be made. A little too much when worn with the dress and coat, but great when accessorising the coat with jeans. 


I love this coat! 

I believe that although I made it to wear with a formal dress, it works just as well dressed down with a t-shirt and jeans for a relaxed lunch or dinner date. 

The coat pattern can be used as a base for many design options: you are only restricted by your imagination! The jacket would work just as well cut short to the waist or hip, as well as three quarter length (better when worn with trousers) or long.  

The sleeves would look good as three quarter length, turned back, flounced or even with statement bishop sleeves! 

The coat would look good made in linen, denim, wool or even brocade. It really is so versatile. 

You can be sure that I will be making this coat again and again in different guises. 

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